Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
